White Francois - Black Ivan Madzharov
ater (1. Nf3 d5 2. d4 Nc6 3. c4 Nf6 4. cxd5 Nxd5 5. e4 Nf6 6. Nc3 Bg4)
At this stage I felt secure in my center control , he had my Knight pinned to my Queen. I assume that you all have basic knowledge of chess principles. So first of all I make an educated prediction , as u know a knight is best used in the center (my friend (Josh Waitzkin) use to say "a Knight on the rim is grim) , and adding to the fact that he already had tension on my Knight it was natural to assume if a threaten his C-Knight with d4-d5 that he would move it to e5 (solidifying he's Knight's position while increasing pressure on my pinned Knight)
after (7. d5 Ne5)
Now I want u to look at this position (try to see what the best move would be). Remember you must always try to predict your opponent in life and chess.....(If you know how your opponent will react to a move or situation before you make it, you can start planning for that reaction before hand and just repeat the process....)
This is what I did :
after (8.Nxe5 Bxd1)
If you are surprised , you didn't think hard enough , my opponent wasn't thinking either (witch we predicted).This is what followed ......
after (9. Bb5+ c6 10. dxc6 Qc7 11. cxb7+ Kd8 12. Nxf7#)
I want you all to look at this game and decide what you would have done differently than my opponent after I played 8.Nxe5 - Please explain why , and I will reply on all your answers.
I would like to give one lesson every weak - 1 Opening Principles
As I use to tell my friends ; It does not matter how u choose to open your game as long as u follow the following principles :
A game may be termed well-commenced set openings apart when the pieces are brought out so that no piece obstructs the action of another, and that each piece be so well planted that it cannot be attacked with impunity. -Walker
An opening to be well constructed should be made quickly -Walker , consequently the same piece should not be moved twice until the other pieces are in play.-Steinitz
The exceptions to this rule are when a greater or at least an equal loss of time can be inflicted upon your adversary, also when an improper move on his part brings an important advantage within measurable distance.
There are two styles of development ; the attacking and the defensive. In one the pieces are spread about to secure the greatest possible command of the board. In the other they are kept together mutually supporting or defending each other.
Whichever method is adopted the player should be prepared to change from one to the other at short notice, that is unless he sees a certain win before the first course.
A piece in play should not be exchanged for a piece out of play. The exception is - to retreat would entail the loss of the attack.
To gain a Pawn in the opening it is worth while to lose one move.
To gain a Pawn it is seldom worth while to lose one move and the attack, against a good player. To expend two moves with a Knight in order to win the exchange is rarely advisable.
A Pawn may generally be sacrificed in the opening with advantage when it accomplishes two objects i.e., when it brings an undeveloped piece into play, and at the same time keeps an opponent's piece out of play.
This applies especially to Gambit attacks. There are other ends which may be substituted for that of keeping an opponent's piece out of play, such as to facilitate access to his King,
Weigh your advantages and disadvantages. When you have an opportunity of making a good move, and you see before you another move which permits several good continuations, select the latter. Your adversary will most probably hasten to stop your good move at the risk of a bad game.
This is the principle upon which the finest Gambit attacks such as the Muzio and the Allgaier, are founded, and it may be summed up in the maxim " retain as much freedom of action as possible."
When you cannot see your way to an attacking move, play a development move. When you cannot make a development move, play, if possible, a restraining move that will check your opponent's development.
When your opponent shows a disposition to play a backward or defensive game, do not play a forward game. Keep your pieces together, play steadily and look out for weak spots. If he pushes forward rapidly in the centre, try to get round him.
If he advances Pawns on both sides try to cut his game in two.
If he advances rapidly on one flank, wait till he has fairly committed himself in that direction, and then attack him on the other side. This assumes that your game is not so far committed as to leave you no option.
These maxims may appear obvious. The difficulty is, however to recognise their applicability in the position under your eyes when playing. This is the point which requires careful attention.
Advanced Pawns should be supported from the side of the board and not from the centre. A Queen's Pawn used as a supporting Pawn is especially weak, being open to attack on all sides.
On the same principle, a supporting piece should always be placed where he is least liable to attack, or where, if attacked, he can support while retreating. For this reason a Knight is inferior as a supporting piece. A good player will aim at the supports rather than at the front rank.
A Rook on the same file as your opponent's King or Queen is always well placed, intervening men notwithstanding. In the former position, with Queen and the other Book on adjoining files, you may generally force the game. This is easier if the intervening Pawns are disarranged.
This principle may be extended to the Queen and two Bishops on three adjoining diagonals bearing upon the adverse King's quarters, but the rule is not so certain in this case, unless there are advanced Pawns to assist in the attack.
In exchanging, aim at securing a majority of Pawns on your Queen's
side. That is if your King is castled on the other side.
To be avoided or carefully guarded against are :
1 . A sacrifice or capture which brings your King into position for a diverging .attack by Queen, Rook, Bishop, or Knight.
A double check is equally to be shunned.
2. A sacrifice or capture which drives your King away from the defence of a piece by proximity.
This maxim applies to any piece, but in the openings it is generally the King that is aimed at through the f2 Pawn which he alone defends.
An attack on the Castled King with four pieces will usually force the game and permit one piece to be sacrificed in order to clear the way.
Castling on the Queen's side is not so safe as castling on the King's side, especially for the second player, because it leaves the a2 Pawn undefended. There are, however, some notable exceptions to this rule, when the Queen's file is open for the player so castling, and not for his adversary ; or when the Pawns on King's side can be advanced for a strong attack on his adversary's King already castled on that side.